Lavender

Lavandula angustifolia

Shrubs
A field of lavender in full bloom with rows of purple-blue flower spikes
Lavender field by Annie Spratt, licensed under CC0

Quick facts

Sunlight
Full sun
Watering
Fortnightly (established plants)
Hardiness
H5 — Hardy in most of the UK
Toxic to cats
Toxic
Toxic to dogs
Toxic
RHS recognition
Award of Garden Merit

About Lavender

Lavender is one of the most loved garden plants in the UK, prized for its aromatic silver-grey foliage and spikes of fragrant purple-blue flowers that bloom from June to August. Native to the Mediterranean, it has been cultivated in British gardens for centuries and thrives in the warm, free-draining conditions found across southern England. Its nectar-rich flowers are magnets for bees and butterflies, making it an excellent choice for a wildlife-friendly garden. The dried flowers and stems are widely used in potpourri, sachets, and culinary applications — particularly in baking and herbal teas.

UK fact: The variety 'Hidcote' (Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote'), named after the National Trust garden in Gloucestershire, is one of the UK's most widely planted lavenders and holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

Watering Lavender

Water fortnightly when established; drought-tolerant once rooted, but susceptible to root rot in waterlogged soil — overwatering is the most common cause of failure.

Lavender is drought-tolerant once established and prefers to dry out between waterings. Newly planted specimens need watering every few days for the first season; after that, fortnightly watering during dry spells is sufficient. Overwatering is the most common cause of failure — lavender planted in waterlogged soil will develop root rot and die. Always water at the base, not over the foliage, and reduce watering entirely during autumn and winter.

Sunlight requirements

Lavender needs full sun — at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Partial shade significantly reduces flowering and causes a lax, open habit.

Lavender requires a position in full sun — at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. In partial shade it will grow but produce far fewer flowers and develop a lax, open habit. In the UK, a south- or west-facing aspect is ideal. Avoid planting against a north-facing wall or under the canopy of trees. Good air circulation around the plant also helps prevent fungal problems.

Soil and feeding

Well-drained, gritty or sandy soil is essential; lavender tolerates poor, alkaline conditions but dislikes rich, heavy clay. Improve drainage with horticultural grit if needed.

Well-drained, gritty or sandy soil is essential. Lavender tolerates poor, chalky, or alkaline soils and actively dislikes rich, heavy clay. If your soil is heavy, improve drainage by adding horticultural grit or sharp sand before planting, or grow lavender in raised beds or containers using a gritty compost mix (one part perlite or grit to two parts compost). A slightly alkaline pH of 6.5–7.5 is ideal.

Lavender needs very little feeding — high-nitrogen fertilisers promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers and fragrance.

Lavender needs very little feeding — feeding encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers and fragrance. If plants look pale or stressed, apply a very light dressing of slow-release, low-nitrogen fertiliser in spring. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds entirely. Container-grown plants benefit from a single liquid feed of a balanced fertiliser in May.

Pruning Lavender

Prune twice a year — after flowering in late summer and again in spring. Never cut into old grey wood, as lavender will not regenerate from it.

Pruning is the key to keeping lavender compact and productive. Without regular pruning, plants become woody at the base and stop flowering well. Prune twice a year: once lightly after flowering in late summer (August–September), removing the spent flower stalks and about one third of the foliage growth; and again in spring (March–April), cutting back to just above the new green shoots emerging from the woody stems. Never cut back into old wood — lavender will not regenerate from bare wood.

Propagating Lavender

Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings in late summer (July–August); overwinter under cover and pot on in spring once rooted.

Lavender is easily propagated from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer (July–August). Cut a 10–12 cm non-flowering shoot just below a leaf node, strip the lower leaves, and insert into a mixture of equal parts compost and perlite. Keep in a cold frame or cool greenhouse over winter; pot on in spring once rooted. Softwood cuttings can also be taken in May–June and root more quickly. Division is not recommended — lavender does not divide cleanly and the divided sections rarely thrive.

  1. 1Take a semi-ripe cutting

    In late summer (July–August), cut a 10–12 cm non-flowering shoot just below a leaf node. Choose healthy, firm growth from the current season.

  2. 2Prepare the stem

    Strip the leaves from the lower third of the cutting, leaving 3–4 pairs of leaves at the tip.

  3. 3Insert into compost

    Insert the cutting into a mix of equal parts compost and perlite in a small pot. Several cuttings can share one pot.

  4. 4Overwinter under cover

    Keep in a cold frame or cool greenhouse over winter. Water sparingly — just enough to prevent the compost drying out completely.

  5. 5Pot on in spring

    Once new growth appears in spring (indicating the cutting has rooted), pot on into individual 9 cm pots of well-drained compost.

Common problems

Root rot is the most common problem, almost always caused by waterlogged soil or overwatering. Affected plants wilt despite moist soil, and stems turn brown at the base. There is no cure — improve drainage before replanting. Shab (Phoma lavandulae) is a fungal disease that causes sudden wilting and die-back of shoots; remove and destroy affected material and improve air circulation. Rosemary beetle (Chrysolina americana), an invasive species now widespread in the UK, feeds on foliage and can cause significant damage; remove adults and larvae by hand in autumn. Lavender is generally not troubled by aphids or slugs.

The Loam app can help identify what's wrong with your plant — photograph the affected leaves and it will suggest the most likely cause.

Seasonal care calendar

Monthly care guide for Lavender in the UK, based on average conditions.

Monthly care guide for Lavender
Month Care tasks
January No action needed. Avoid walking on frozen plants. Ensure container plants are not waterlogged.
February Check for winter damage. Wait for signs of new growth before any pruning.
March Carry out spring pruning once new shoots are visible — cut back to just above fresh green growth. Do not cut into old wood.
April Mulch around the base with gravel or grit to improve drainage and suppress weeds. Plant out new lavender in warm, free-draining positions.
May Take softwood cuttings for propagation. Apply a single light liquid feed to container-grown plants. Flower buds beginning to form.
June Flowering begins. Harvest flower spikes for drying when roughly one third of the flowers on a stem are open. Water only during prolonged dry spells.
July Peak flowering. Continue harvesting for drying. Take semi-ripe cuttings for propagation. Watch for rosemary beetle.
August Flowering begins to wind down. Carry out the main post-flowering prune — remove spent stems and reduce foliage by about a third.
September Complete post-flowering pruning if not done in August. Reduce watering. Plant container-grown specimens while the ground is still warm.
October Cease feeding. Reduce watering significantly. Move containers to a sheltered spot or cold greenhouse if frost is forecast.
November Little action needed. Avoid heavy pruning — leave some foliage to protect the crown from frost.
December Dormant period. Ensure good drainage. No watering needed for plants in the ground.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to prune lavender in the UK?
Prune lavender twice a year: once after flowering in late summer (August–September), removing spent flower stalks and about a third of the foliage growth; and again in spring (March–April), cutting back to just above the new green shoots. Never cut into the old grey woody stems, as lavender will not regenerate from bare wood.
Why has my lavender turned woody and stopped flowering?
Woody, non-flowering lavender is almost always the result of insufficient pruning. Without annual trimming, plants become leggy and lose vigour. If your plant still has some green growth near the base, try a hard spring pruning cutting back to just above those shoots. If it is entirely woody with no green, it is easier to replace it — unfortunately lavender does not regenerate from old wood.
Can lavender grow in clay soil?
Lavender dislikes heavy clay soil because it holds moisture and drains poorly, leading to root rot. If you have clay soil, improve drainage by digging in plenty of horticultural grit, or grow lavender in raised beds or large containers filled with a gritty compost mix. Even with amendments, lavender will always do better in light, free-draining soil.
Is lavender toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes — lavender contains linalool and linalyl acetate, compounds that are mildly toxic to cats and dogs if ingested in significant quantities. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, and lethargy. Occasional brief contact is unlikely to cause harm, but it is best to discourage pets from eating the plant. If you are concerned about exposure, contact your vet.
Why is my lavender dying?
The most common cause of lavender dying in the UK is overwatering or poor drainage leading to root rot. Check whether the soil or compost is waterlogged — lavender needs soil that dries out between waterings. Other possible causes include cutting back into old wood during pruning (which prevents regeneration), frost damage to plants in heavy soil, or rosemary beetle infestation. Inspect stems at the base for brown discolouration, which indicates root or stem rot.

Toxicity information is for general guidance only. Consult a vet or medical professional before acting on this information.

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